Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's vibrant 1990s creative scene, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the zenith of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that spontaneity."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a significant change. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the late 90s, now a different political personality looms as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of cultural optimism, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the response has long been to promote culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of cultural icons from music.

"People with a voice should use it," he asserts, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this moment will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss systemic issues – I was not even aware what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a pioneering career built on fearlessness and representation. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Significantly, sales increased.

"When you ignore huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the status quo. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … all that gave me a dual identity both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the popular image of fashion editors as brash and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His journey has included its share of challenges, including openly discussed battles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with partial sight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the industry that made his name. He is now curating a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to promote the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the expected background," he comments.

This project itself functions with a novel approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful industry leaders. His path, he feels, is a proof to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the younger Edward make of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be proud. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve decided to do something."